It was really Noel Rosa who convinced me to go. If I’m trying to decide where to go out and Dama do Cabaré comes up in my playlist, I head obediently ...
I started as a research assistant at the Instituto Moreira Salles back in June. I’d been thinking about it ever since they told me it was there, hidden away in ...
A concrete building, too small to be a UFO but too big to be a public bathroom, in a dusty, abandoned playground between two highways. Unfortunately, I was in the ...
Stuck na hora do rush: Centro, 18:30. Bus crawling down Rio Branco so slowly you begin to suspect that the driver has just let his foot off the brake and ...
One thing that continues to startle me (and when I say “startle”, I mean it caused me to delicately raise an eyebrow) is the Brazilian ease of conversation. That’s not ...
I’ll just fess up now. On Friday, that was me. If you happened to be an upright carioca commuter on your way to Glória that morning, you were faced with ...
Carnaval is no joke if you’re a lone girl. At first I dodged the grabbing and the “Oi, gatas” and everything else, but things got worse as the bloco went ...
I may end up loving Carnaval in spite of itself, and for perhaps predictable reasons. This was, I can say with confidence, the first time I had heard a Carmen ...
