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Walk with me around one of the most celebrated street markets in France and all of Europe, the Villefranche-de-Rouergue Thursday Market. Several years ago, The Guardian evaluated street markets all France and recognized this Thursday Market as France’s best. I vowed I wouldn’t let that affect my love of it.
This is a market with deep roots going back centuries. It has withstood war, plague, pestilence, and famine. As you walk the stalls, you feel that deep history and become part of it. You get the sense that some things that matter can survive against all odds.
Try to imagine the smells, tastes, sounds. We may encounter a couple playing duets on cello and harp, or a puppeteer, or an accordion/guitar duo. Follow your nose. The strawberries and honeydew melon are out of this world. The local sausage you can sample before you decide whether to buy. Don’t forget to taste some cheeses you’ve never heard of.
You may notice that lots of locals are here as much to socialize as to buy. They know the vendors, so socializing and buying can’t be separated. Many are here to resume last week’s conversations.
If you don’t speak French, it’s helpful to walk with someone who does as many vendors don’t speak English or won’t admit to it.
Consider sampling the farçous (chard and bacon pancakes), aligot (mashed potatoes with cream and tome fraiche cheese), fouaces (orange-flower water brioche), and local specialty breads. If we’re lucky, we’ll see the aligot dripped like hot taffy from a ladle held high.
Bring along a couple of washed-out bottles. You can fill them with respectable wines, including local varietals like Marcillac, for as little as one euro per liter. Remember, it’s far less expensive to drink wine here than Coca-Cola.
