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Country wine is seen as a quaint anachronism. It shouldn’t be.
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Food For Thought: The Power of Stout
In Ireland, stout is far more than just a drink. Since the eighteenth century, the fortunes of its people have run hand-in-hand with that of its brewing industry.
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Food For Thought: The Joy of Fermentation
From the grey bloom on sloes in a Cumbrian hedgerow, to the much-coveted tang of San Franciscan sourdough, every place has its own collection of wild yeasts and bacteria that ...
Food For Thought: The Great British Roast
The great British roast is seen as a tradition from time immemorial – but in reality most Britons could not afford meat prior to the Industrial Revolution.
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Food For Thought: Newe-Fangled Meates
Our food writer Concepta Cassar is what Lorna Bunyard once referred to as “a confirmed toadstool eater”. But why have her fellow Britons not followed suit?
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Food For Thought: The Poverty of Knowledge
In his out-of-print classic, The Epicure’s Companion, food writer Edward Bunyard said: “The most depressing sign of these days is the placid acceptance of the second-rate.” Sadly, when it comes ...
Food For Thought: The Right to an Allotment
Concepta Cassar is number 321 out of 690 in her local waiting list for an allotment. Access to land is a right endangered by profit – as the likes of ...
Food For Thought: The Meaning of Foraging
In her latest food column, Concepta Cassar argues that we should embrace foraging to restore our intimacy with the wild.
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Food For Thought: Hazlitt, Malthus and the Tragedy of Food Banks
Whatever the outcome of the general election, the rise of food banks is a tragic legacy of the coalition government. An early 19th-century dispute between population theorist Thomas Malthus and ...
Food For Thought: What Montaigne Can Teach Us About Ultraprocessed Foods
In his seminal 1580 essay Des Cannibales, Michel de Montaigne criticised “fruit which we have artificially perverted”. Concepta Cassar looks at the relevance of this in the light of today’s ...


